Saturday 28 March 2015

A cathedral and a special garden - Chapter 15

Harry in particular, wasted no time in his quest to view Chartres Cathedral. Together they made their way through narrow medieval streets towards the magnificence of what eventually stood squarely in front of them, its towering presence captivating. 
     They approached the spectacularly imposing edifice, noticing  exquisitely carved figures either side of arched doorways - morning sunlight enhancing the depth of figures and their contours. Light was glancing off the outside walls, flickering through nearby trees as they swayed in the brisk breeze accompanying the morning.
     In the distance, ominous dark grey and deep blue clouds were edged in white and silvery streaks, interspersed with bright sunshine permeating their edges, its warmth still evident even though autumn was making its presence felt intermittently.  The cathedral was framed against the imposing dramatic sky, beckoning visitors to its doors and inner sanctum.  
     They advanced through the main entrance door standing to absorb the sheer beauty confronting them. Any light filtered through stained glass windows emitted a gentle blend of soft colours onto the floor in front of them.  Harry took a deep breath, lifting his chest.
     'Magnificent, don't you think Tony? Did you notice those huge flying buttresses earlier? Quite a feat in building...' He ambled on a few steps before pausing briefly. Without waiting for Tony's opinion, Harry continued enthusiastically, 'also... do you know there is a beautifully preserved pavement labyrinth in here? Constructed in the 13th century, measuring 12.9 meters in diameter, filling the width of the nave, it does.' Harry was certain of various details he already knew about the cathedral, but had never seen. 'The cathedral is probably the finest example in French Gothic architecture - said to be the most beautiful cathedral in all France. Not sure if I agree with that, but...'
     Tony only half listening,  in a world of his own, murmured his approval, then gazed up towards the height of the roof, noticing its structure and was later informed that the present building began after a fire destroyed the previous church in 1194, the existing stained glass dating mostly from the 14th century.
     His head went back as he looked enquiringly at the structure above him, but Harry had wandered on.
     'Hmm...' he said to himself. 'That isn't exactly straight... the column is leaning.' He beckoned to his friend. 'Harry!' he whispered loudly, 'come and see this. Look up there,' he said, pointing, 'it's out of plumb, don't you think?'
     Harry knew the answer already, as he'd been reading about the cause of it. The columns were part of the Lantern Tower and one had suffered a direct hit during the Second World War. The authorities had dealt with it immediately, thus saving the whole structure. In fact almost the complete cathedral had been badly damaged and using the original materials, was rebuilt to its magnificence as it now stands.
     'You'd hardly know how bad the bombing was to look at it,' Harry commented, 'and it's a pity the labyrinth is mostly covered with chairs as it's a rare thing to see. Evidently no one knows exactly when it was constructed, but probably in the earlier part of the 13th century.' Harry loved this sort of thing, relishing the history, architecture and overall ambience of the cathedral, his expression alive with enthusiasm.
     'Yes, but...' Tony began.
     'But what?
     'It's all very interesting, but not exactly exciting,' suggested Tony. 'I do enjoy these places, but...' 
     He didn't get time to finish as Harry jumped on him. 'This is ancient history my good man. Think of the reason why the Labyrinth was constructed for one thing, but haven't we had enough excitement for a while?' He turned to face his friend square on. 'I mean - with you going over the cliff and jumping into rivers to save kids from drowning...'
     'Only a little girl and it was a one off,' replied Tony, not at all put off by the insinuation. 'I couldn't have left her, could I?' 
     Harry pursed his lips looking serious, then thought for a moment, his expression changing. 'Only a one off? I certainly hope so!  Swimming in the river when we were supposed to be enjoying a quiet boat ride. Yeah... alright.  I'm only teasing - honest. In fact, I was utterly astonished at the time and very proud to have you as a friend. Specially when you can't swim,' he added.
     'Thanks old boy, that's nice to know,' replied Tony sheepishly . 'Quite honestly, it shocked me too, but I didn't think first, just reacted. Guess I won't be making a habit of it. It's a wonder I didn't drown. Perhaps it was foolish, but...'
     'No... no it wasn't Tony. It was very brave of you. In fact it's something I'll remember for a very long time. It's sure to go all around the golf club when we get back you know,' laughed Harry.
     'Oh well, perhaps that's not a good idea.' Tony's cheeks were beginning to colour as he ambled below a magnificent rose window, complete with exquisite stained glass. 'But this was!' he remarked, looking up. All that stained glass must have taken a massive effort to complete. Such workmanship!''
     They admired with fascination, the Romanesque glass from the 12th century which thankfully survived the fire of 1194. Tony too, enjoyed what they saw, eventually  working up a good appetite, thinking of a nice lunch.
     Crossing the road, they found tables and chairs set out overlooking the side of the cathedral and settled down to enjoy a glass of wine with their lunch. They glanced heaven-ward noticing thankfully no storm threatened, as was earlier expected.
     After more history, old timbered buildings, medieval streets, the odd Aston Martin car parked in a side street much to their delight,  it was time to leave Chartres.
     Earlier over lunch, it was Tony who suggested they try and visit Monet's house and garden, before the final leg of their vacation, driving towards Caen and the ferry back to England. He remembered the art exhibition in Martigny, Switzerland, where he discovered an unusual appreciation of the Impressionists. Many paintings were viewed as part of a special Renoir exhibition, sprinkled with a few Monet's. Harry was in complete agreement.  
     Their next destination stopover for two nights would be Rouen and as usual, Harry looked forward to the historic part and perhaps the last cathedral of the trip - much to Tony's relief. Cathedrals were all very well, but not one after the other. He tended to forget which was what, getting them confused in his ageing brain.
    
Deciding to do without Miss Madam to get them to Monet's house, Harry needed to study the map carefully. Finding the village of Giverny may not be straight forward, nevertheless knowing he'd get them there, whatever the circumstances.
     Eventually they arrived mid morning, pleased not to find a host of other people there. They began in the garden, later gravitating to the house, which to both of them, looked like a charming large cottage with green shutters in the French style.
     It was possible to stroll around the lake, as indeed the artist must have done many times. His water-lily paintings were famous and to their delight, discovered a few still flowering on the lake's surface. Hidden amongst some plants on the bank was an old rowboat still afloat, barely visible and no doubt the same one in which the artist regularly rowed out onto the lake. The wisteria-covered bridge was still there, freshly painted in the green Claude Monet included in several of his paintings. It spanned one end of the lake, reached after the two friends ambled alongside a flowing stream leading to the lake along the perimeter pathway.
     'This really is a charming house,' remarked Harry, as they stepped through the front door, immediately noticing many paintings and drawings adorning the walls, particularly the main bedroom which was delightful. 'Very much in the cottage style, don't you think Tony? Almost feminine in fact.'
     His friend was closely studying a small painting, the detail and minute brushstrokes breathtaking. 'It is rather. Not exactly my taste, but there is a real sense of homeliness about it. This artist was a genius. Look at that detail,' he said, pointing carefully so as not to touch the frame.
     'I'm pleased you have discovered art and the Impressionist style of Monet,' replied Harry, smiling. 'I once viewed a special exhibition of his in London. Magnificent! So glad I made the effort. Well worth it. Such a prolific artist.'
     As they made their way slowly through the house, Tony turned suddenly in a doorway and as he did so, bumped into a lady. 'Oh, excuse me.' Then stopped dead in his tracks. 'Haven't we met before?' he asked politely, looking perplexed.
     The lady turned back and immediately Tony recognized her as Kathleen - one of the ladies with whom they'd had an enjoyable conversation over supper in Besancon. 'Err...yes, I think so. Yes, quite right,' replied the lady, finally recognizing Tony. 'Here's my friend Maudy too.' She turned to include the other lady they'd met in the restaurant. You may remember her.' 
     'Hello! Ah... I do remember you now,' she laughed. Besancon!'
     Harry caught up with Tony and immediately eyed the two ladies relaxing into a friendly manner. 'Nice to see you both again and here of all places!'
     Kathleen gestured at the wall paintings. 'Simply splendid, don't you think?'
     'They are indeed,' Tony agreed. 'Been here long?'
     'A good hour,' said Maudy. 'It's a place in which we could both easily spend another hour. Fascinating! What a wonderful artist Claude Monet was!'
     Kathleen nodded in agreement. 'Unfortunately we need to drive on to reach Rouen before late afternoon. The parking can be horrendous at the hotels. First in - first served! Awkward without a decent park, I must say.'
     'That's where we are heading next,' Harry grinned. Well fancy that!' We've made a reservation for two nights so as to have a good look around. Loads of interesting history attached to Rouen! Have you been there before?' he asked the ladies.
     Kathleen thought for a moment before answering. 'Yes, but a very long time ago. Guess it hasn't changed a lot since then. We'll soon find out though.'
     'Indeed!' Maudy said. 'The cathedral is every bit as interesting as many in France.'
     Harry heard a low grown emanating from Tony's throat. 'I believe the heart of Richard I of England is buried there and also Henry III, the young king.'
     Maudy raised her eyebrows as she turned to Harry. 'You seem to know quite a lot about history.'
     'Not a lot,' answered Harry. 'But I've started writing a book about Richard III after studying his life and researching past history. You know, the princes in the tower and how he became king - but a lot happened before then I may add.'
     'How interesting!' remarked Kathleen. 'I actually wrote a book myself about his life some time ago, while teaching.' Immediately she noticed a slight look of disdain on Harry's face. 'There will always be controversy about the two princes I'm afraid,' she continued, trying to put Harry at his ease again. 'Pity it's not been possible to prove how and why they died. Some will always blame their uncle Richard for their murder or disappearance, but I don't think that's fair.'
     The conversation may have gone on much longer had it not been for Tony gently intervening. 'It would be great to continue this fascinating part of medieval history, but I'm afraid we must be on our way. We have to find the hotel first and judging by all the narrow one way streets in Rouen, the sooner the better.'
     They said their farewells and agreed to try and meet up again in Rouen for a drink.
     Driving through interesting countryside  half an hour later, Tony suddenly chuckled.
     'What have you been thinking about, huh?' Harry looked over at Tony's face, wondering.
     'I suddenly remembered something that happened about a week ago,' Tony replied, still chuckling.
     'What was that then?' asked Harry, somewhat puzzled.
     'Remember when we stayed in the hotel with a small balcony on the first floor? The one with an outdoor pool below?'
     'I do. Ohhh... that one!' Harry suddenly laughed. 'Hilarious! I had thought to wash out some underwear and hang it out on the balcony rail in the sun, while you decided to sit beside the pool reading.'
     Tony continued the story. 'I looked over to a nearby table, thinking someone had left their bathing costume there. Suddenly after a puff of wind, I appeared to be wearing a new hat - your undergarment in fact - another pair blew off the rail and landed on my head!'
     'Err...yes, unfortunately.' Harry looked sheepish. 'Thank goodness there was no one else about at the time,' he continued, before biting his bottom lip, eyes rolling. 'Good grief! What a thing to happen. It was as well you'd decided to read for once!'
     'For once? Well I like that!' frowned Tony, as he manoevred the black Mercedes around a difficult roundabout. 
     Harry wriggled down into his car seat, burying his face in the map he was holding upside down.  
    
    
      
    
    
  

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