Wednesday, 14 January 2015

Onwards and upwards - Chapter eight

Menton was every bit as they had expected. Many boats of varying sizes rocked gently side to side, sheets jangling against masts while they were anchored close to the shore, or tied up at marinas. The town rose gently into the hills behind with narrow streets and widening roads ambling  around a curved bay. Both men were beginning to wish they had stayed longer, but considered it best to stick to their plans of immediately crossing the border into Italy, before turning north towards Switzerland and left Menton reluctantly. It was to be their last glimpse of the deep blue and green Mediterranean, with its many bays and beaches, villages and large towns that adorned and beautified its existence.
      The French Riviera was a haven for so many of the sailing community, both rich and famous, but also for fisherman providing fresh catches for the many restaurants and hotels - to visitors flocking to the well kept and often elegant resorts. It also possessed a chic standard of living for retired people both in the towns, villages and for those who lived amongst the hilltops overlooking the Mediterranean sea. There would always remain a pleasant mixture of society, a melting pot of cultures that mingled well in the various shops, eateries and sporting opportunities, blending like a marbled cake, the differences still apparent with always an opulent atmosphere.  
     The road towards Turin and the bypass west to their hotel were relatively straight forward.
     Sweeping into the hotel car park, Harry and Tony thought how very different it was to the French ones. The meal that night was not up to expectations, but the rooms were very large, which somehow made up for it.
     The next day saw the scenery change rapidly as the black Mercedes began climbing into the foothills of the Alps. In the distance a few majestic peaks remained white-capped with snow, deep valleys were scattered haphazardly throughout, but somehow everywhere presented itself in an orderly fashion of stunning beauty - the sweeping countryside taking on an air of peaceful tranquility away from the Mediterranean.
     Before too long Harry stopped the car and programmed Miss Madam, the sat/nav, for help. There could be a few tricky sections of today's drive neither wished to get wrong. Although Tony was a decent map reader, or so he thought, the road ahead could present problems when it came to winding around mountainous roads and finding the hotel in the next town where they planned to stay, being Martigny in Switzerland.
      They were now driving on a steep road in places, passing through sheer rock-face on the edge of cliffs, the odd waterfall cascading down rocky gorges - roads being tunnels of winding terror for the unaware, undisciplined driver, open on one side, endlessly twisting and turning upwards, the scenery changing with every bend of the road. Harry needed to stay focused, otherwise there could be serious consequences. All the signs were in Italian and not too difficult to understand, but understanding them was of absolute necessity.
     'Right then! That's seems to be correct.' Harry settled back into his seat again, buckling up the seat belt, then re-started the engine. 
      Tony checked the map one last time for guidance - his version of doing things. He was reluctant to rely on Miss Madam entirely, after a few chaotic experiences. These car 'accessories' were not always up to scratch and trusting them wholeheartedly went against his nature. 'It must be his age', he thought, with a resigned inward intolerance.
     'The road up ahead looks rather bendy,' he reluctantly informed his friend, expressing a grim tone. 'I hope Miss Madam will handle it. There appears to be masses of steepening hills surrounding us too.' He gazed upwards to the towering peaks not far away - their splendour and grandeur capturing his imagination briefly, before studying the picture the sat/nav presented. 'Hey, just look at that!' he remarked incredulously. 'There are hills on either side of the road there too! Well I never knew that before!' Tony exclaimed, giving a slight shrug of his shoulders. Then he chuckled. 'That's a clever little toy, isn't it?'
     'Of course there are, silly.' A pertinent voice uttered the comment from somewhere of the dashboard region. 'A satellite up above will find you almost anywhere,' she inferred without hesitation 'It notices the hills and valleys too, as you carve your way through the countryside. Picks up all the roads, rivers and signposts.' 
     Tony pulled a face, his eyes wide. 'Almost? Now how can that be, huh?'
     The voice continued as Miss Madam became her usual dictatorial self again. 'Do you realize you are heading for a tunnel soon? It's not easy finding you under all these rocky cliffs. This road does make things difficult at times,' she blathered on, for she was no ordinary sat/nav it seemed.
     Harry had been listening with a wry smile on his face. Then his face changed as he manoeuvred around a sharp bend in the tunnel of rocks and boulders the road was cut through. His jaw dropped and his mouth opened in sympathy for his friend. 'Hey ho Tony, she's off again. Always needs the last word. Just as long as she is accurate, that's all I care about.'
     After driving along the beautiful Valle d'Aosta in Italy, they paid a hefty toll, passing through the long St. Bernard tunnel, before dropping down into Switzerland on the other side. Soon after, Harry stopped the car at a roadside shop with conveniences.
     They got out of the car and breathed deeply.
     'Smell that alpine air!' cried Tony, sniffing with his eyes closed tightly, then began reaching for a jacket 'Much colder too - more so than down by the Med. It's the higher altitude I guess. I wonder if you can get something to eat here?'
     Harry donned a jacket also. 'You're always thinking about your stomach. Well alright, perhaps a nice hot coffee would be in order. It's certainly not as warm as the coast was.'
     They crossed the road to what looked like some sort of restaurant or local cafe, bearing the Swiss flag flying proudly above its rooftop, with  check curtains in small homely-looking windows, a smell of freshly roasted coffee wafting briefly through the mountain air. Harry paused before they entered and walked a little way down the side of the road, peering into the distance. Steep grass-covered hills reached to the roadside on each side as the undulations rose and fell gently down the slopes into  grassy meadows beyond.
       'It's beautiful here,' he remarked to no one in particular - then continued admiring what lay before him. 'I can even hear cowbells in the valley down there,' he murmured to himself, smiling into the distance. 'Haven't heard that sound for a long time.' He remained there several more moments, enjoying the quietness and being alone for a change.
     He caught up with Tony as he was disappearing through the door of the cosy looking restaurant. They ordered coffee from a middle aged lady wearing Swiss National costume, then sat at a small table overlooking a well-kept garden at the side.
     'How are you feeling after your, err... ordeal in France, going over that cliff-face the way you did?' Harry gave a little cough, biting down on his bottom lip trying not to smile.
     'You can grin all you want my dear friend. But it was bloody frightening to say the least - if you'll excuse the language.' Tony winced slightly as he pulled his chair closer to the table. Harry's face was one of mirth, before becoming serious. 
     'Actually it was extremely frightening for me too, old boy. Thought that was the end of you for a moment. It gave me a heck of a shock you know. Just as well you've still got a little arm muscle left, isn't it? That other little problem...umm, has that improved at all?' He couldn't stop grinning, then burst into peels of laughter.
     Tony looked out of the window, then returned to glance at his friend again. 'Well a little better I suppose. Not a good experience for any man,' he replied, feeling a bit sorry for himself.
     'Awe, I'm sorry, of course you are right old friend. I wouldn't have fancied going over a cliff either. At least the views were pretty spectacular though.' Harry became serious again. 'You must have been stuck down there in a very awkward position. And pulling you up like that... phew! That wasn't good.' He was all concern for his unfortunate friend and repeating how lucky they had been in finding those two policemen at the right moment. They more than likely saved Tony's life.
     'I wasn't concerned about the views thank you,' Tony retorted before continuing. 'More concerned on how much longer I had to live and dead lucky to hold on for so long.' He felt a little exasperated trying to ignore Harry's frivolous remark. He frowned, a dark look on his face. 'Must be the arm wrestling with the grandchildren that helped, but it wasn't much fun and I don't wish to repeat it either.'
     'No, of course not,' mumbled Harry, feeling a little remorse because of his flippant remark.
     The coffee arrived at that moment from the gracious lady who had taken their order at the counter.
     'Merci beaucoup', said Harry with a smile, taking the tray from her.
     'Tony leant in a bit. 'Very nice...!
     'What! The coffee?'
     'No, silly. That very attractive Swiss woman.'
     'Oh! Hadn't noticed myself.'
     Tony grinned in his usual knowing way. When it came to attractive women, he usually noticed them. He always had this ability, with a charming manner to add to it. 'I bet you did' - then added, 'wonder if we could buy something for lunch here?' he asked, looking over to another part of the small cafe with expectation.
     Harry took a long sip of the warming coffee. 'I expect so. This place is a curious mixture,' he said in a low voice, gazing over to where Harry had indicted. 'Probably everything is home made and fresh though. They wouldn't keep bothering to get fresh supplies from Italy and travel that long tunnel we've just come through, now would they? That toll was monstrous!'
     'Definitely not, if I know the Swiss. Like to be a bit independent they do. I might ask for a cheese and lettuce roll myself.' Tony inclined his head towards the counter where the attractive Swiss lady was preparing something. 'I'll order yours too if you like,' he offered, grinning into his coffee cup.
     'It doesn't take you long to notice our surroundings, does it?' laughed Harry.
     'What surroundings could you possibly mean, huh?' Tony glanced up at the ceiling trying not to react. 'I bet they produce all their own cheeses too. Did I hear cow bells in the valley earlier?'
     His friend remained passive. 'You did and I'll have what you are having please. Then we'll try and find a decent restaurant for tonight's supper when we reach Martigny.'
     'When we finally reach there - yes. Good thinking.' Tony looked over towards the counter and finishing his coffee, decided to try and order some lunch for them both in his best French. He thought to himself that they surely wouldn't speak German this far west.
     He approached the lady, who was wearing a lacey trimmed crisp white apron, busy with her tasks. 'Excusez-moi madam,' he began, then lost heart. Somehow the lady already knew they might be English.
     'Yes... may I help you?' she enquired, with a kindly smile and in good English.
     'Oh!' At first she caught Tony unawares, feeling a little flustered. 'May we please have two rolls with cheese and lettuce if possible?' he asked, cheeks blushing which hadn't happened in a long time. He felt self conscious at first, then becoming more self-assured.
     'Of course. Anything else? A drink maybe?'
     Tony thought quickly. 'Two coffees to take away please.' Although they had just had more coffee, he couldn't think of what else to say.
     The lady smiled and nodded, then set about preparing his order. Tony turned back to Harry, who was finishing his coffee and looking for the conveniences. The lady spotted the signs and nodded to the back of the cafĂ©.
     Harry grinned in recognition heading off in that direction.
     Tony faced the Swiss lady again. 'Have you been here a long time?'
     She looked up kindly, a gentle expression on her attractive face, which had been tanned over the summer by the sun - her blue eyes were deep-set and meaningful. Under the fresh-looking white apron, her pale blue skirt and blouse not only matched her bright eyes, were spotlessly clean.
     'About thirty years,' she replied.
     Harry hesitated for a moment before asking the next question. 'Do you make your own cheese by the way? There seems to be several milking herds around here.'
     'Oh yes. We have been producing our own cheese and yoghurt for a very long time. Many people do. Any excess can always be sold.'
     Harry gave a nod of approval turning back to her from briefly glancing around the shop area. 'Will you be including some in those rolls?' he asked, indicating in their direction.
     The lady smiled again. 'Of course!'
     'We are yet to taste it, but I'm sure it will be delicious,' Tony concluded.
     Harry returned at that moment and came to stand beside his friend. The lady cut two sample pieces from a large round of cheese, handing them on the end of a knife for the men to taste.
     They gratefully accepted her kind gesture, each taking a bite. Tony was the first to speak. 'I was right! I've never tasted anything quite like this.'
     'It's simply delicious!' Harry agreed. 'Oh my goodness! He bit into the last morsel as his face took on an amazed look.
     'I'm pleased you like it gentlemen.' The Swiss lady beamed in moderation, then handed their lunch to Tony, who hurried to extract some money to pay for it. 'Merci beaucoup madam. It's been a pleasure.'
     He gave a little bow and turned to Harry. 'Time to go I think,' before turning back to the lady, when both thanked her again before leaving.
     'You are most welcome gentlemen and thank you for calling in.'
     'What a lovely place that was!' exclaimed Tony, arriving back at the car.
     Harry opened his door on the driver's side as usual. 'You've done it again, haven't you?'
     'Done what?' asked Tony innocently, wondering at first what his friend was insinuating, before looking a bit sheepish.
     Harry laughed. 'You know perfectly well what I mean. Charming that lady in there into tasting some cheese.'
     'Oh that!'
     'Yes that!' Harry replied, pulling a face at Tony.
     'Well alright,' Tony agreed reluctantly. 'Perhaps I did a bit and I bet we'll enjoy our lunch all the more for it. She was really nice though,' he added.
     The engine started and Harry turned out of the car park. 'I'm sure you are right,' he chuckled.
 
      Miss Madam the sat/nav decided at that moment to announce further directions. 'Continue for the next ten miles, then prepare to carry straight on.'
      Tony looked up startled. 'What on earth does that mean - prepare to carry straight on?'
      'All in good time,' came the answer from Miss Madam. 
     'It makes no sense,' said Tony. "Prepare to carry straight on!" 'I ask you - not even logical! What is she up to now, I wonder?'
     'Hmmm...' Harry was more than a little suspicious himself.
      The car cruised on in the direction dictated, but Harry became more than suspicious now. Their vacation was full of twists and turns that had not been expected. The weather was changing as clouds loomed up ahead, already shedding large droplets onto the windscreen, causing visibility to become more difficult with each moment. 
      'Damn and blast!' Harry uttered, his face becoming as dark as the weather outside. 'This is not helpful.'
     The rain was more intense and all he could do was slow down and continue on, being careful not to miss anything important in the way of signposts. It wasn't possible to stop now, as barricades prevented them each side of the winding road. Steep alpine slopes loomed everywhere they looked, the weather deteriorating with every mile, the windscreen appearing as a colourful blur, indicating their difficult surroundings.
      Suddenly, after the required miles were undertaken, a sign appeared stating that the tunnel ahead was closed. 
      Miss Madam chose that moment to further instruct them to continue on.
      'But we can't do that!' cried Tony, feeling frustrated and annoyed, wondering if there was any alternative.
     They found a suitable, more minor road leading off to the right and decided to try it, which soon appeared to be looping back, taking them miles in the wrong direction. After many miles, further, they arrived back where they started - the tunnel remaining closed with what appeared, no alternatives. 
       Exasperated, Harry sighed, his face darkening like the weather outside, rain lashing the car with monotonous rapidity. 'Now what?' There was nothing for it than to think and reason what was to be done. The situation seemed hopeless. He was feeling hot and bothered, when a car drew up alongside them. They must have noticed the English plates.
      'Can we help you!' a man asked, lowering his car window. His wife was sitting beside him looking hesitant and concerned. 
       Harry immediately opened his window, one finger firmly on the button. 'Yes please,' he answered, somewhat relieved.
     The man indicated they follow him after being informed they were trying to reach Martigny. 
      'Thank you kindly,' replied Harry with a smile. 'We will.'
      Tony was amazed and blew out through his mouth with grateful relief as they both sat tight, nervously keeping a careful eye on the car in front, the rain not letting up in the slightest.
      'Thank goodness he's not driving too fast.' Harry muttered, continuing with complete concentration.
     'He's being careful not to lose us. Amen to that!'
      The Swiss driver in front drove up hills, down and around small roads, under a bridge, eventually stopping when they came to a main road again - miraculously pointing to the sign and direction Harry needed to take. It was clearly indicating they were on the outskirts of Martigny.
     Harry tooted a thanks and all waved a cheery goodbye. 
      There was a great sense of relief when they finally drove into the main part of town. Within no time at all, they found their way to a suitable hotel, backing onto a park. Sweeping into the leafy carpark, both men exhaled deeply, grateful to have arrived. Immediately the surrounding scenery was admired, the centre part of Martigny looking invitingly attractive with perhaps a Swiss fondu supper to look forward to later. 

     The evening grew warmer again as rain-filled clouds rolled away to the east, the sun setting with a final glow of pinks and soft yellows reflecting upon the roadside and in smart shop windows. It enhanced the atmosphere which at times felt fresh and invigorating, the last of the sun's rays  casting soft shadows through a local park and onto nearby two story shingled Swiss houses, leaving the two friends with a feeling of euphoria, belonging and enjoyment of their surroundings.
     They donned jackets and clean shirts before making their way along one of the main thoroughfares, seeking out a suitable place to eat supper.
     'How about a proper Swiss fondue?' Tony suggested.
     Harry thought for a moment while they strolled. 'What! - a cheesy one do you mean?'
     'There are several types of fondue you know - not only cheese ones, but meat and chocolate ones too. Image all that bubbling thick chocolate with all sorts of things to dip into it?' he suggested.
     'No thanks! Much too sweet for me. But a meat one sounds interesting. I might try that. It's a very long time since I had a fondue. What about you?' Harry looked expectantly at his friend as they both remembered a long time ago, to the days when people had fondue dinner parties.
     Tony agreed, but he was feeling more like sampling some fresh fish instead, as they spotted a suitable restaurant a little further on.
     It was mutually agree upon and they found it contained a few spare tables as yet unoccupied. They were guided to a table for two along a wall, where most of the tables were placed side by side.
     Soon they were approached by a young lady with a charming smile, dimple in both cheeks and sparkling eyes, to take their order, much to Tony's pleasure and delight. 
     'Are you ready to order gentleman?' she asked, in perfect English.
     Harry glanced up from reading the menu. 'Made up your mind yet, old man?'
     To that, Tony frowned briefly. 'I believe so,' he said nodding, then looking up at the young lady who made a note of his fish order. She turned her attention, to Harry inquiringly.
     'Sir?'
     'May I have the beef fondue please?' Harry asked politely, also ordering a nice bottle of wine to accompany the meal.
     The young waitress nodded, writing it all down, then added, 'Certainly sir!' She turned tail towards the kitchen at the rear of the restaurant, now buzzing with low voices.
     After the usual wait, which wasn't very long, the young waitress returned placing the adjoining table next to theirs, causing two raised eyebrows expressing surprise from both men.
     'It's very necessary as you'll soon see,' came the reply with a charming knowing smile. Both men waited, wondering what was to happen, until the young lady returned with several sauces  and delicious looking chunks of rustic bread, all laid out neatly with a small, strange-looking brass fishing net, which she placed in front of Harry's plate and the necessary cooking burner for the oil. It was beginning to look impressive. He looked down at the object with curiosity spread over his face.
     Next came many strips of raw meat Harry was to cook himself to his own liking. They could see how the extra table was necessary, as the fondue and all the accompaniments  alone took up most of the room. Tony only required a fraction of the space for his fish meal. Following this was the hot oil and the two friends toasted themselves, to missing friends and England. Harry hardly knew where to start, but began with a thin slice of beef, dipping it into the hot oil briefly, for he preferred his meat rare to medium. He tried each of the four sauces, carefully tasting before finding the one he preferred, dipping the next piece of meet into it after the oil. There was a beautifully prepared julienned salad to accompany his fondue.
     'Oh my, this is good!' he exclaimed, after the third piece of meet had been eaten. The next bit wasn't so successful. It got lost, remaining in the oil. 'Oops! What now I wonder? That will be overdone for sure!'
     Tony had been eyeing his friend with a certain amount of envy. 'No it won't, you dope! What do you think that is for, eh?' he laughed gently, indicating the brass fishing net.
     'Ah! I should have realized that,' remarked Harry. 'Of course! What a great idea!' he mused, picking it up and starting to fish around in the oil for the lost beef.
     Tony could only snigger.
     I knew that all along. What else would it be for, huh?'
      Poor Harry bit his bottom lip with remorse. 'Oh alright then. Perhaps I am a bit dim at times.'
     'Not really old friend, but you do make me smile sometimes.' Tony tried not to laugh, his face distorting instead - until they noticed a younger couple, perhaps man and wife,  shown to the next table on their other side. As he took another mouthful of the beautifully tender fish, Tony thought they looked familiar when the man turned to look at Harry.
     'Aren't you the pair who were lost in the rain earlier today?'
     Harry immediately remembered the helpful couple who had lead them out of a difficult situation when the tunnel was closed.
     'Why yes, of course!' he replied, reaching over to shake their hands, smiling with pleasure. 'It was so helpful of you to show us that other direction. We appreciated it enormously. Thank you again.'
     'Not at all. We noticed your English plates and realized your predicament,' the man answered. Although they spoke with a strong accent, their English was excellent.
     They made their acquaintance, introducing themselves as Rena and Frederick, before Harry and Tony let them be  for a while, in order to read the menu. After closing them, they settled back to await their meals, later enjoying some stimulating conversation with the English couple, chatting into the night about many different topics - from travelling to teaching, world politics to food, different Swiss beers, local food, the English weather and the arts. The Swiss couple were on a walking holiday, staying not far away. It appeared they had a lot in common and the four enjoyed the evening immensely, when Tony suggested he treat them all to a schnapps. After a second one and a different flavour, the atmosphere became even more relaxed, with conversations toing and froing from side to side, then diagonally across the tables, often ending in peals of laughter and merriment.
     Until it was time to call a truce. Both couples rose to pay their respective bills and with shaking of hands and friendly gestures, the evening came to a reluctant close. They said their goodbyes with further helpful instructions for Harry, about continuing their vacation towards Lausanne, when it was time for them to move on to their next intended 'port of call'.
     Walking back to their hotel with many topics still whirling around their light-headiness, the rain having ceased, air spiced with pine  and freshly invigorating, Tony breathed its mountain aroma, taking it deep into his lungs. 'What a great night and in so many different ways!'
     'And that fondue was one of the best I've ever tasted,' Harry replied, walking in step with his friend of many years back to the hotel.
    
    

      
   

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